He was particularly known for his streamlined s designs influenced by modernism and futurism , exploiting modern technology and new fabrics. His superbly cut trousers also attracted notice.
His clientele were mature and conservative women with high disposable income. In , he began to be known for extremely simple, geometric, modern designs, trousers for women, and a predilection for white, [ 13 ] [ 14 ] including the "little white dress. While revolutionary in the ways described, these collections were a continuation of longstanding trends toward less constricting fit that had begun in the s.
His spring collection continued to feature his distinctive boots, popularized pantsuits, [ 64 ] and brought above-the-knee skirts to Paris haute couture for the first time. White dominated the collection. Their characteristic narrow cut and perfect proportions continued to win praise from the fashion press. His trouser outfits attracted the most attention, [ 69 ] launching the pantsuit trend that would change societal norms during the decade. His autumn collection advanced the fashion industry with modern, futuristic designs that were unheard of during the time.
This look became one of the most important fashion developments of the decade and was widely copied. Jackets were longer and had deeper vents than previously. Some were marked with a hip seam.
The presentation included a model getting dressed from a state of near nudity. Short, white gloves were included with almost everything. He continued with his spare, futuristic autumn styles into spring of , when he shortened his skirts even more and opened the toes of his signature calf-high white boots. His spring versions had the same open toes as the boots and featured a bow on the instep strap.
